The Art of Customization: Choosing the Right Chemical Peel for your Clients

Leigh Polidoro
Oct 20
3 min read

As an esthetician, one of the most powerful tools in your skincare arsenal is the chemical peel. When used correctly, peels can transform skin — helping reduce signs of aging, fade hyperpigmentation, improve texture, and address stubborn acne. But with so many options available, choosing the right peel for each client can be overwhelming, especially when balancing skin goals with safety.

Let’s break down how to confidently choose the right chemical peel for your clients based on skin type, condition, and lifestyle.

1. Understand Your Client’s Skin Type & Fitzpatrick Level

The first step in selecting the right peel is understanding the client's skin type and Fitzpatrick scale level.

Fitzpatrick I-III: These skin types typically tolerate a broader range of peels, including medium-depth TCA and Jessner’s solutions.
Fitzpatrick IV-VI: These clients are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Opt for superficial peels like lactic acid, mandelic acid, or low-strength glycolic acid. Avoid aggressive or mid-depth peels unless you’re highly experienced with melanin-rich skin and the client is properly prepped.

Pro tip: Always do a patch test, especially on higher Fitzpatrick types or first-time clients.

2. Identify the Primary Skin Concern

Each acid serves a purpose. Tailoring the peel to the client's concern ensures results without unnecessary irritation.

🔹 Acne & Congestion:

Salicylic Acid (BHA) – Oil-soluble and anti-inflammatory, ideal for oily, acne-prone skin.
Mandelic Acid – Great for sensitive, acne-prone skin and darker skin tones.

🔹 Hyperpigmentation & Melasma:

Lactic Acid – Gentle yet effective, boosts hydration while targeting pigment.
Mandelic Acid – Excellent for PIH and melasma without aggressive peeling.
TCA (low %) or Jessner’s – Effective for deeper pigmentation when skin is properly prepped.

🔹 Aging, Texture & Fine Lines:

Glycolic Acid – Stimulates collagen and helps with fine lines and texture.
TCA – Medium-depth TCA peels can dramatically improve texture, tone, and sun damage (with proper post-care).

3. Assess Lifestyle & Downtime Tolerance

Not every client can take 5-7 days off work or social activities for flaking and shedding.

For busy professionals, opt for "no-downtime" peels like enzyme exfoliants, lactic acid, or low-strength glycolic peels.
If a client has an event coming up, stick with gentle peels that offer a glow without visible peeling.
Seasonal considerations: Avoid deep peels during summer or for clients who will be exposed to strong UV rays.

Educate your client about the healing timeline and post-care. Set realistic expectations to build trust and long-term loyalty.

4. Consider Prepping & Priming the Skin

For stronger peels, especially those targeting melasma or advanced aging, a pre-treatment regimen can help reduce complications and increase efficacy.

Brightening agents (like azelaic acid, kojic acid, or hydroquinone) can help prep the skin and suppress melanocyte activity.
Retinoids may be introduced 2-4 weeks before (and paused before the peel) to accelerate cell turnover.
Always provide sun protection education—SPF is non-negotiable.

5. Start Low, Go Slow

It’s always better to under-peel than over-peel. For new clients, first-time peelers, or those with sensitive/reactive skin:

✅ Start with a superficial peel✅ Track skin’s response✅ Increase strength or frequency gradually in future treatments

Building trust with your client's skin (and the client themselves) is more important than delivering dramatic one-time results.

6. Know Your Brands & Formulations

Not all peels are created equal. Some brands combine acids or buffer their formulas to reduce irritation. Understand the pH, acid percentage, and vehicle (gel, liquid, pad) of the product you’re using. Training with the manufacturer is always a smart move - we offer DermaStart Advanced Peel Online Training - our training is $89.00 plus GST and is credited back to your account to be used towards the purchase of DermaStart products.

Final Thoughts: Chemical Peels Are Not One-Size-Fits-All

As an esthetician, your ability to customize treatments is what sets you apart. Chemical peels are powerful when used strategically — and disastrous when chosen carelessly. Take the time to assess, educate, and personalize. When you do, you’ll not only transform your client’s skin — you’ll earn their trust and loyalty for years to come.

Have questions - contact us